Wednesday 9 April 2014

Costume-making 101: Part the Second – Design, with an interlude

Greetings fellow enthusiasts of all-things creative, welcome to the fourth part of my musings about one of my current fabrication projects, the Assassin’s Creed meets the Wild West Comic-Con costume.

When we left the metaphorical action last time around, serendipity had struck and I was ready and able to make some real progress on the historically-inspired “duster” element of the costume.  Little did I know however that my new-found pride in my little design realisation would soon lead to a pretty big fall…  Dramatic music.

So, I had my general design sorted and a good base garment that I’d be able to adapt to fit my new brief.  For fans of repetition and for convenience sake, here’s that picture again to illustrate what I had to start with:


Looking things over, the sleeves would have to go.  I’d adapted them from the original pattern, Simplicity 4059 (incidentally, the same one I used for a friend’s Ezio-inspired tunic, more on that later…), which called for the sleeves to be hemmed along the back seem and open towards the front, held closed in three or four places with buttons.  I’d re-designed them slightly, created my on pattern and attached them to the shoulders, without realising that I hadn’t included a seam allowance.  School.  Boy.  Mistake.  Please remember folks that when you’re taking measurements and creating new pattern pieces, you must include an allowance for the seams – it doesn’t matter the size, just remember to include it, otherwise you’re going to end up with wings rather than sleeves.

Sleeves going, that’s the first decision.  I could unpick the shoulder seams and finish the open shoulders with a strip of fabric bias, but this would leave me with a fairly uninspiring hooded waistcoat.  Something else was needed.  Looking back through my reference photos and with some input from my old friend Google, there was a common theme when it came to the “Old West” style dusters – a shoulder cape.  I knew that somewhere in my Big Drawer of Stuff I had a pattern for a long cloak complete with a shorter cape section (Simplicity 2513 for those keeping score), so I dug it out and set about cutting.  Some cutting, ironing and sewing later, I had this:


I then removed the sleeves, more to come on this in a mo...

After some consideration I’d decided not to alter the size or shape of the cape section despite it being a few sizes larger than needed – I liked the over-sized and dramatic nature of it, plus the shape and size sat well across the shoulders of my mannequin and provided a good silhouette.  I also like the way the thing moved when you had it on and the off-white vs. white of the over-tunic/undershirt would be subtle but there enough to make it interesting to look at.

Now, we have to skip around in time somewhat here to appreciate my next decision.  I write these blogs retrospectively whilst continuing to work on whichever particular project I have on the go.  I’ll cover in more detail things such as the shirt, sash, details, etc. next time, but for the purpose of this entry it came time to start trying things on to get an overall sense of the finished costume.  So then, what did we have?

Trousers – a stand-in for now, they aren’t right but they are the colour I wanted and they were on hand:



Shirt – more on this soon, but for now it was almost complete (having lost the collar pattern piece – there’s a lesson here people…):


Over-tunic – as per the above, it was now hooded, caped and had the sleeves removed and shoulder seams encased:


And of course, the hat.  I had this laying around since my ill-fated and last minute attempt at a work Hallowe’en party costume, Rick Grimes from The Walking Dead.  I’d then planned to use it for my own take on Freddie Krueger, which may still happen, but for now it worked well enough for my Old West needs:


Plus of course a sash, which again I’ll cover another time, along with a belt I’d found on a popular auction site:


I have to admit I was quite excited about putting the whole thing on for the first time, mainly because if it all worked together, I had a real chance of getting the rest of my little projects ready for Comic-Con in May.  The result..?

It looked terrible, to the point where I forgot to take a picture of it on me.  The sash and the belt sat wrong, the hooded tunic didn’t gather properly around the waist, sit across the shoulders as I’d hoped with the hood up (or down), the shirt bunched and caught against the tunic and the whole thing looked shapeless and underwhelming (I'll add a photo next time, it's late...).

Bugger.  In fact, the actual word I used was a little stronger, but I’ll go with that for the sake of not offending the children.

Hopefully you’ll see why I still include this post under the Design section of my project – sometimes things change on the fly, other times your hand is forced to a new direction once you get further into a project and sometimes, things just look plain wrong in reality when compared to your initial ideas.  I’ll leave you hanging now until next week, suffice to say I needed a plan and I needed it quickly…

This week’s closing image/sneaky peeky?  Well, remember somewhere above I mentioned the adapted Ezio-esque costume for a friend of mine?



Check out his inspirational blog detailing his battle to overcome cancer at the age of 28 and to go on to compete in obstacle races across the south-east of England – much more worthwhile than my fabric-based musings:



It’s been emotional

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